Es Trenc and Caló des Moro from Palma: access, parking and boats

Es Trenc and Caló des Moro are two of the best-known beaches in southern Mallorca, and both need planning from Palma. Es Trenc is a long, low stretch of sand between Sa Ràpita and Colònia de Sant Jordi, protected as a nature park; Caló des Moro, in Santanyí, is a small cove between pines and rock. Neither has a scheduled bus to the sand.

If you are driving, think about parking before you think about your towel. If you have no car, a boat is often the easiest way to see them, with one caveat: no boat lands on Es Trenc beach. Below you will find routes, prices and rules.

Es Trenc beach: what it is and what you will find

The beach is part of the Parc Natural Maritimoterrestre Es Trenc–Salobrar de Campos, an area protected under Balearic law that takes in dunes, posidonia meadows (a protected seagrass) and the Salobrar salt pans. It belongs to the municipality of Campos and covers the coast between Sa Ràpita and Colònia de Sant Jordi. Official information is on the park website.

In season, from 1 May, there are removable kiosks with toilets, sunbed and parasol hire, and lifeguards. Away from those points there is nothing: bring water and shade. The toilets and information point at na Tirapèl only operate in summer.

Es Trenc is known as a naturist beach, but it is not officially designated as one: nudism is a tolerated habit, not an authorised zone. Plenty of websites call it "Caribbean"; that is marketing. Legally it is a protected area with rules that are enforced.

How to get to Es Trenc from Palma

By car is the most direct; the table gives minutes and kilometres from Palma and from the beach resorts:

There is no bus to the beach. Your options:

• TIB 508 Palma – Llucmajor – S'Estanyol – Sa Ràpita: leaves from the Estació Intermodal (Plaça d'Espanya) about 13 times on a weekday between 07:40 and 22:10, and takes around 1 h 05 to Sa Ràpita (Club Nàutic). Some journeys do not run at weekends. From there you walk to the western end of the beach.
• TIB 501 to Campos and TIB 517 to Colònia de Sant Jordi. From Colònia harbour it is about 20 minutes on foot to the sand.

The shuttle bus between Sa Ràpita and Sa Barralina that ran some years ago is not known to be operating any more: do not count on it.

By boat from Palma: Life & Sea runs a "beach taxi" to Es Trenc for €40, from Can Pastilla at 10:00 and S'Arenal at 10:15. Note: it lands in Colònia de Sant Jordi, not on the beach, and from there Es Trenc is about a 20-minute walk. You have free time roughly 11:45–16:45 and get back to Can Pastilla at 18:15 (lifeandsea.com). Boarding at S'Arenal means crossing the sand, so it is not wheelchair accessible.

Es Trenc beach parking: prices and which car park to choose

You may only park in the signposted car parks. The main ones:

These are the latest published rates and may have changed: check the sign at the entrance. The machines take coins, cards and contactless. Driving in and out without parking is free, so you can check for space without paying.

The free alternative is street parking in Sa Ràpita or Colònia de Sant Jordi (which has no pay-and-display zone) and walking. In July and August finding a space in Colònia is hard.

Es Trenc Nature Park rules

There are only a few, and they are enforced:

• Dogs banned from the beach from March to October; from November to February, on a lead.
• Do not walk across the dunes: use the marked paths.
• No fires and no picking plants.
• Boats may only anchor on sand, never on posidonia. That is why tours drop anchor off the beach over sandy patches.
• Parking outside the official car parks is prohibited.

Caló des Moro: how to get there and restrictions

Caló des Moro is in the municipality of Santanyí, next to the Cala Llombards development and the s'Almunia inlet. It is tiny (about 30 × 20 m of sand mixed with rock) and has become one of the most photographed coves on the island. That fame is the problem.

By car: from May to October, around twenty streets in Cala Llombards are a residents-only zone, monitored by cameras and bollards, and the police fine hire cars that drive in. Leave the car in the official car park at the entrance to the development, with about 300 spaces. When it is full the police close access, so arrive early.

On foot: from the car park to the cove is a 1.5 km path, about 20–25 minutes, with a steep descent down steps. Wear closed shoes; flip-flops will not do.

By bus from Palma (about 1 h 30 each way):

A real example: 11:05 from Palma, Santanyí at 11:57, the 12:25 517 and arrival at the stop at 12:30.

Caló des Moro: what is not there and when to go

At Caló des Moro there is nothing: no beach bar, no water, no lifeguard, no toilets, no sunbeds and no reliable shade. From June to September the cove is overwhelmed, and at the height of August there have been queues of about three hours to get down. For 25 years a private foundation cleaned it; now the town council does.

How to enjoy it:

• Go first thing in the morning or after 17:00, when the groups leave.
• Bring plenty of water and something to eat.
• If it is full, s'Almunia, the neighbouring inlet with fishermen's huts, is the natural alternative on the same stretch of coast.
• If you can choose your dates, May and October are far more manageable than June to September.

Seeing Es Trenc and Caló des Moro by boat

From the sea there are no parking problems and no queues, and for Caló des Moro it is the most relaxed option. What you need to know: boats do not land on these beaches; you swim from the anchored boat or, at Es Trenc, walk from Colònia harbour.

Es Trenc from Colònia de Sant Jordi. Life & Sea offers a 4-hour trip with a barbecue at 10:00 for €55 (children 3 to 12 half price), with a snorkelling stop near Cap de ses Salines and another at Es Trenc, plus a 3-hour trip at 15:00 for €39 with snorkelling gear included. For less than half the cost of a full day from Palma, you see the same sea.

Es Trenc from Palma. There is a premium catamaran trip from 09:00 to 19:00 (from €200) with brunch, lunch, a DJ and three stops: Cap Blanc, Es Trenc and Cap Blanc again. Snorkelling gear costs €20 on board and hotel transfers are not included. Oddly, the best snorkelling is along the Cap Blanc cliffs, not at Es Trenc.

Caló des Moro from Cala Figuera. Redstar leaves Cala Figuera harbour in small skippered RIBs (redstartours.com):

• Nature Tour, 2 hours, from €42: passes Cala Santanyí, Es Pontàs and the smugglers' caves, with a 40-minute swim at Caló des Moro or s'Almunia depending on the wind.
• Discovery Tour, 4 hours, from €70: adds Cala Mondragó and Cala Màrmols (the latter reachable only by boat or after a long hike). June to September only.

Drinks and snorkelling gear are included; food is extra. They need at least 4 adults to sail, so if you are on your own or a couple, pick a time that already has bookings.

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Es Trenc or Caló des Moro: which to choose

For a family beach day, Es Trenc. For a photo and a short swim, Caló des Moro early in the day or from the water.

Combining with Cabrera and other trips in the south

Colònia de Sant Jordi is also the departure port for Cabrera National Park: the classic trip costs €58 with about three and a half hours ashore, and the express €45 with very little time on the island. Staying in Colònia and doing Es Trenc one day and Cabrera the next is a very sensible plan.

For more beaches, see Palma's beaches, reachable by city bus with no paid parking, and the other day trips from Palma. If you want the sea without driving, boat trips covers the departures from the city itself, and boat rental the skippered options. Everything you can book is in excursions and tours in Palma.