Valldemossa and Deià from Palma: the Charterhouse, Chopin's cell and Robert Graves' house

Going from Palma to Valldemossa and Deià is the easiest day trip into the Serra de Tramuntana: a single bus, the TIB 203, drops you in Valldemossa in half an hour and in Deià in three-quarters of an hour. Valldemossa is the village of the Charterhouse and Chopin; Deià belongs to Robert Graves and its pebbly cove.

Two things will save you grief. First: Valldemossa has two "Chopin cells", with separate tickets. Second: on a Sunday you lose the Charterhouse, and on a Saturday or Sunday the Graves house. On a Wednesday everything is open and Deià has its market too.

How to get from Palma to Valldemossa by bus

The line you want is the TIB 203 (Palma – Valldemossa – Deià – Sóller – Port de Sóller), which leaves from the Estació Intermodal, beneath Plaça d'Espanya. Don't look for the "210": that line no longer exists on the TIB network, even if old guides still mention it.

Reference times, using the 09:45 departure from Palma:

Monday to Friday there are about 24 departures from Palma, between 07:15 and 22:00; on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays about 22, between 07:35 and 20:15. Watch out: around nine of the weekday departures terminate in Valldemossa (07:15, 09:50, 11:00 (one of the two), 12:20, 13:45, 15:10, 16:35, 18:00 (one of the two) and 19:25). If you are heading to Deià, check on the official line 203 timetable that your bus carries on.

Coming back, the last bus leaves Valldemossa at around 21:25 and Deià at around 21:10. In summer the buses out of Palma fill up: the TIB is trialling a seat reservation system on line 203 that is worth a look. Within Palma the 203 doesn't carry passengers on purely urban journeys, and the UIB and Son Espases stops are on request when boarding.

Back on the Sóller train

The best combination of the day: out on the 203, stopping in Valldemossa and Deià, on to Sóller, then back to Palma on the Sóller train, which leaves Sóller at 17:15 (to be confirmed at the ticket office), 18:00, 18:30 and 19:30. Single train tickets are bought at the Sóller station ticket office on the day.

Things to do in Valldemossa: the Charterhouse (Cartoixa)

The Cartoixa de Valldemossa (Royal Charterhouse) is the main visit. The standard ticket covers far more than you might expect:

• The Palace of King Sanç, built in 1309 by Jaume II for his son Sanç, who had asthma; in 1399 it passed to the Carthusian monks, and in 1835 it was sold off when Church property was seized.
• The cloister and the monks' cells, including cell no. 2.
• The gardens and terraces, the monks' old pharmacy and the neoclassical church.
• The municipal museum, with the 17th-century Guasp printing press and a room on Archduke Ludwig Salvator.
• A Chopin piano recital of about 15 minutes in the palace, included in the ticket.

The visit is self-guided, with an audio guide or app, and it is worth timing it around one of the recitals.

Valldemossa Charterhouse: price and opening hours

Open Monday to Friday 10:00–17:00 and Saturdays 10:00–16:00. Closed on Sundays. Official prices at cartoixadevalldemossa.com:

The 16th-century keep tower was built after the Barbary pirate raid of 1553 and had never been open to the public; now you can climb it with the €3 supplement for a 360° view. If you want a dated ticket before you arrive, GetYourGuide sells the standard Charterhouse ticket from €12.50, the same price as at the ticket office.

Chopin's cell: the Charterhouse versus cell no. 4

This is where almost everyone gets confused. Chopin and George Sand spent the winter of 1838–1839 in Valldemossa, and today two places present themselves under his name:

• The Charterhouse (€12.50 ticket) includes cell no. 2 and the piano recital.
• The Frédéric Chopin and George Sand Cell Museum, in cell no. 4, is a separate private museum, founded by the Ferrà family in 1929. It holds Chopin's Pleyel piano, manuscripts and letters. It costs €5 (under-10s €3) and tickets are sold only at its own ticket desk, at the time of your visit.

If you want to see "Chopin's cell" with his belongings, you need both tickets: €17.50 per person. Cell no. 4 is open daily 10:00–17:30, and from November to January Monday to Saturday 10:00–16:00. On Sundays, with the Charterhouse closed, it is unclear whether you can reach it: if Sunday is your only day, ring ahead on +34 696 405 992.

Things to do in Deià: Robert Graves' house and the village

Deià is a stone village hanging above the sea, 15 minutes from Valldemossa along the Ma-10 road. Its visit with real substance is Ca n'Alluny, Robert Graves' house, where the British writer lived until his death in 1985 and wrote I, Claudius. He is buried in the village cemetery.

The house was built between 1929 and 1932 and has been restored as it was in 1946: the 1883 Crown Albion printing press, the study and a 1930s garden. The visit is self-guided, begins with a 15-minute film and needs at least an hour.

Robert Graves' house: price and opening hours

• Price: €10; pensioners and students €7; under-12s €5 (always with an adult). Card or phone payment.
• Summer hours (1 April – 31 October): Monday to Friday, 09:30–16:30; last entry 15:50.
• Winter hours (1 November – 31 March): Monday to Friday, 09:00–16:00; last entry 15:20.
• Closed on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays (including 12 October and 8 December) and for a period over Christmas. Information at lacasaderobertgraves.org.

The house is on the Ma-10 between the centre of Deià and S'Empeltada. Get off the bus at the S'Empaltada stop, 200 m away (3–4 minutes on foot), not at Deià centre, which is 600 m away. There is no parking at the house: the nearest is the "Parking General" at S'Empeltada, 200 m away.

Cala Deià: what it's like and how to get down

Deià's cove is made of rounded pebbles and rock slabs, with very little sand and a steep entry into the water. There are no sunloungers, parasols or showers; the only toilets are at the two restaurants by the water. Bring water shoes and don't dive in.

It has a small pay car park with a barrier that puts up the "full" sign very quickly in high season. The alternative is to park in Deià and walk down for 20 to 30 minutes along the road or old paths. The 203 bus only stops in the village, not at the cove. If you want a sandy beach with facilities, see the Palma beaches or Es Trenc.

Valldemossa and Deià parking

Valldemossa: the blue zone (ORA) is charged every day, 10:00–20:00 from April to October and 10:00–18:00 from November to March. On the seasonal rate in the municipal by-law, 1 hour costs €2, 2 hours €3, 5 hours €4 and 10 hours €5. Buy the 5 hours straight away: for €2 more than one hour you are not rushing. The machines usually take coins, and it is worth checking the rate on the meter itself.

Deià: spaces marked in orange are for residents with a municipal permit, including those around Cala Deià. Visitors must use the public pay car parks, and ignoring the sign costs an €80 fine. Check the rate at the entrance of each car park before leaving your car.

If you are driving out of Palma, don't cut through the old town: it has ACIRE zones with cameras. The 203 bus spares you all of this.

Organised tours to Valldemossa and Deià

If you'd rather be driven, the best-selling tours combine Valldemossa with Sóller and the tram. The Valldemossa, Sóller and Port de Sóller tour by bus and tram starts from €49 (4.7 from more than 780 reviews) and is the most balanced option. For small groups, the VIP Valldemossa and Sóller tour (max. 8 people) starts from €82. If you fancy a walk, there is a tour with a hike to a mountain viewpoint from €89.

Compare that with doing it yourself: you pay the 203 fare, the Charterhouse (€12.50) and the return train from Sóller (€23), you coordinate the timetables and you decide how long to spend in each village. More ideas in the day trips from Palma and the organised excursions guide.

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